Western New York Herpetological Society
www.wnyherp.org
©
2001 - 2002 by Western New York Herpetological Society
This document is for guidance only and should not be used as the sole source of information. New information is being developed
daily. It is recommend that a concerted effort be made to maintain up-to-date knowledge of the animals of interest.
Common Name:
Red Eye Tree Frog Latin name: Agalychnis callidryas
Native to:
Southern Mexico to Eastern Panama
Size:
Males average about 2 to 2.5 inches (51 – 64 mm) snout-vent length. Females average 2.5 to 3
inches (64mm – 76 mm) snout-vent length.
General appearance:
All red eye tree frogs have their signature red eyes with vertical pupils and a green
back and a creamy white belly. Some specimens have white spots on their back as well. The feet
are yellow to orange in color. Color and size can vary depending on the geographic location the
frog comes from. Specimens from the northern part of the range tend to be slightly smaller with
blue display flanks. Specimens from the southern part of the range tend to be larger but have less
colorful display flanks.
Housing requirements:
Enclosure:
Generally speaking, enclosures should be at least 10-gallons in size for a pair of
frogs. A good rule is to allow 5 gallons per frog kept. Cage tops should be half glass and
half screen to help keep humidity levels higher. If possible try to use enclosures that are
taller to allow these frogs places to climb and room for foliage.
Temperature:
These frogs do best at temperature ranges of 60° – 85° F (15° – 30° C), though
long periods of time at their temperature extremes can be unhealthy for the animals. They
do well with average daytime temperatures of about 75
°– 80°F (24° – 27° C) and
nighttime temperatures of 70
°– 75° F (21° – 24° C).
Heat/Light:
Usually these animals do well at room temperature, but if needed, an under-tank
heater, low wattage incandescent bulb, or ceramic emitters can be used to raise the
temperature of the enclosure. In summer months steps need to be taken to keep the
enclosure cool, such as to make sure the enclosure is not in direct sunlight and to
circulate the air in the room with a fan or open window. UV light has not been proven to
be helpful or harmful to these animals but if your enclosure contains live plants you
should provide some light for the plants. A 12-hour photoperiod should be provided and
can be achieved by using a timer.
Substrate:
The substrate provided should be able to help hold higher humidity levels. A layer of
3 to 5 inches (76 – 127 mm) of substrate such as orchid bark or potting soil and
sphagnum moss can be used. If desired aquarium gravel can be used on the bottom level
for drainage.
Environment:
Because these frogs come from a tropical rain forest, a higher humidity level of
60% to 70% is a must. Higher humidity levels can be maintained by regular mistings,
appropriate substrate, and partially cover the cage top. If water droplets begin to form on
the glass, the humidity is probably too high. Red eye tree frogs also love to climb on
broad-leaf plants such as
Philodendron, Anthurium, and Mongtera species.
Western New York Herpetological Society
www.wnyherp.org
©
2001 - 2002 by Western New York Herpetological Society
This document is for guidance only and should not be used as the sole source of information. New information is being developed
daily. It is recommend that a concerted effort be made to maintain up-to-date knowledge of the animals of interest.
Diet:
Like may amphibians, these tree frogs are insectivorous. Insects such as crickets, flies, fruit flies,
and just about anything smaller than their mouth. Crickets are usually the easiest and most readily
available food supply. When feed crickets it is important to gut load the crickets with a good diet
to provide the best nutrition for your frog. Fresh water should be provided in a dish for the frogs
because they will rehydrate themselves by soaking in the disk. They will often drink from the
water accumulated on the plants from misting as well.
Maintenance:
It is important to mist these frogs on a regular basis. Depending on your local environment,
cage setup, and substrate you may have to mist as often as daily to only two to tree times a week.
Owners should also be wary of unfiltered tap water as it may contain substances harmful to your
frogs. It is best to use filtered and dechlorinated water for misting and drinking. The enclosure
should be spot cleaned as needed. The enclosure should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected
regularly to prevent mold from growing in the substrate. A 5% bleach solution makes an excellent
disinfectant. Be sure to rinse the enclosure thoroughly after disinfecting. As always, be sure to
wash your hands thoroughly after handling your frogs or any cage accessories
Other references or recommended reading:
de Vosjoli, Phillippe, Robert Mailloux, and Drew Ready. Care and Breeding of Popular Tree Frogs. Santee,
CA: Advanced Vivarium Systems, 1996
“Red-Eyed Tree Frog.” 1998 Czar Helix. Retrieved 6 September 2002.
<http://www.helixpro.net/anuran/redeye.htm>
“Red Eyed Tree Frogs.” California Zoological Supply. Retrieved 6 September 2002.
<http://www.calzoo.com/html/redeyedtreefrogs.html>
“Red Eyed Tree Frogs.” Retrieved 6 September 2002
<http://www.geocities.com/Hollywood/Bungalow/2463/redeye.html>